Colin Kull Eats Out

Colin Kull

Collin Kull has been working at Tartine Bakery & Cafe in the Mission for a little over a year now. He considers himself a jack-of-all-trades at Tartine – but truly loves producing many of the wonderful croissants and cakes that line the pastry case.

I have a soft spot for a few things at Tartine – things that I won’t bother attempting in my kitchen – like their bread, morning buns, banana cream tart, and the Devil’s food cake. You don’t know how many times I’ve wished someone would bring me that damn cake at 10 o’clock at night.  Since settling this year in San Francisco Colin has managed to find his way into my life via Booty Call Wednesdays and other special events. I hope to get a private lesson on how to roll out a nice rich buttery dough from him soon or a special late-night cake delivery.

Colin Kull answers my foodie questionnaire here:

What is your favorite dessert?

I would have to say a Hazelnut Dacquoise. One of my first plated desserts as a pastry chef was this. It is a five layer two bite dessert. Its a japonaise meringue (hazelnut) layered with swiss meringue espresso buttercream and ganache. Finished with a dense coating of cocoa powder and crushed candied hazelnuts. So tasty!

What restaurant would you call your home?

Thats a tough one. I’d have to go between El Castillito on Church & Duboce or Sushi Time which is tucked away in that strange “mall” on Market next to Books Inc. Castillito wins for most frequented due to the closeness to my house and the delicious carne asada burritos. The men definitely know me and my order there. But when I am not chowing down on a burrito I am most likely craving sushi. Sushi Time is such a small intimate hole in the wall. I love that it seats 15 people max. There rolls are delicious and well priced.

What is the strangest or most inspiring thing you’ve ever eaten?

When I was living in Italy we had to castrate pigs one day and…well, for lunch that day we fried up the testicles and everyone around the table tried it. The actual flavor and texture wasn’t terrible, but psychologically it was rough on us. Some of the older Italian men could not believe that we would eat such a thing. That was definitely more strange than inspiring.

What was your favorite breakfast cereal as a kid?
Peanut Butter Captain Crunch! I used to eat it by the handful. No milk!

What is your favorite food to pig-out on after the club?

I seem to end up at CyBelles more often than not eating their greasy, meaty, delicious pizza!

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